Fashion designers have always worked alongside other skilled professionals including: jewellers, cobblers, hat makers and artisans.
Accessories are often designed and manufactured to compliment a collection after careful and considered collaboration.
"Grossé founded in 1907 by Mr Heinrich Henkel and Mr Florentin Grossé, is also referred to as Henkel and Grosse. In the 1930s, the pair worked with design houses such Lanvin and Schiaparelli in Paris as well as with Harrods in London and Saks in New York.
From 1955 Henkel & Grossé designed jewellery for and with Christian Dior and continue to hold a license to produce and distribute Dior jewellery worldwide.
However, Henkel & Grossé carried on producing their own jewellery lines, including Grossé Bijoux, which was expanded in the 1960s to include the collections Grossé Sterling and Gold.
In 2005 the family withdrew from the business and the firm became part of the Dior group.
During my research I found many Grossé pieces advertised as Dior pieces. Unless it says Christian Dior, Chr Dior or just plain Dior, it is not.
Same jewellery designer, manufacturer and quality but not chosen as a piece to represent the house of couture.
The signatures are similar and both include the date, rare for costume jewellery.
Reputable vintage dealers will be aware of the difference. Knowing the history, provenance and correct attribution of pieces takes considerable research both online and in books. I enjoy speaking with other jewellery dealers at Clerkenwell Vintage Fair and when I visit antique markets to find out more about the pieces I have discovered.
I do not consider myself and expert but will continue to learn about the fascinating world of antique and vintage brooches. If I do not know the answer to your questions, I am happy to try and find out.
What I learn, I will share with you.
You can shop my Grosse´brooches and other designer pieces here.
Follow on Instagram @audrasbrooches to see and reserve my new finds before they hit the shop or market.
All mistakes or omissions are the author’s own.
Copyright Audra Daws-Knowles 2024.